We have been staying in Indiana, across the river from Louisville, in Charlestown State Park for just over a week and have had the entire 2339 acre park almost entirely to ourselves the whole time (aside from those using the boat ramp daily). This weekend there were a few people who stayed a couple of days, all quiet and in bed by 9 like usual, but now that it’s the weekdays, we’re Alone at last!!
This park is great. Hilly for some difficult bike rides (which we’ve been taking advantage of daily), riddled with wildlife like wild Turkeys, tree frogs, toads, friendly raccoons, possums, rabbits, all the usual southern birds like cardinals and blue jays (and supposedly 58 other species) - and a selection of insects as big as anyone could ever want.
The cicadas click and chirp a consistent song day and night while giant leaf shaped grasshoppers jump at you and thumbnail sized horse-flies buzz around you, aching for a taste of your flesh. On one of our bike rides we saw the elusive and quick footed Cow Killer, a kind of a wingless wasp also called a Velvet Ant – and came across several giant dragonflies who swerved in front of our bikes, going well over 20, and turning on a pin just before you get a mouthful.
I am a huge mammal person usually but ever since we’ve been traveling I’ve seen so many amazing insects that I’ve become a bit obsessed with how strange and awesome they are. Such a huge variety. and such an incredible pain in the butt to photograph.
Last weekend we spent our Saturday hiking in Hoosier National Forest and saw tiny yet demented looking orb weaver spiders, another cow killer and a huge (sadly dead) moth/butterfly in pale green with kite like tails on its wings.
When you hang out outside and hike as often as we do, you just tend to see a much larger ratio of insects to mammals and birds so naturally you start to pay attention.
Here are some of the most recent beasties from Indiana:
About a month or two ago we heard some nibbling under the stove area. We had said on facebook that we thought it was a mouse, then decided it must have been a carpenter bee and didn’t think much more about it. Months go by and… it was a mouse. Hearing the chewing again in the stove, I opened it up to see a large fat mouse fearlessly snacking on burnt veggies that had fallen in the stove. So shocked that he just sat there eating while I watched, Susa took the opportunity to grab him and take off towards the back room. I caught her and yelled “Drop it!!”, which she did. My vague plan was then to grab it before it ran away again, but I didn’t really want to get bit. Before we could get some paper towel to grab him with, he was in the back room and down the side of the back cabinets, which as we found, is just another passage way into the long area behind the wall he has been living in (almost the length of the trailer). We weren’t sure about his condition after Susa got him but since she’s never caught or even seen a mouse before, I assumed from past cat experience that she hadn’t really chomped down. I put out some nuts the next day to see if he/she was still around, had died or left the trailer. I put down 18 peanuts (halved/salted) thinking I could just count them if he took one, and hours later, all of them were gone. So either that one mouse made several trips in short time, or he has friends. I spend the evening cleaning up inside all the cabinets and spraying lysol on everything, making sure that no mouse urine or dropping remained in the places I could access (which was most aside from under/behind the stove) and especially making sure there was no more crumbs in the stove. I had vaguely been looking for droppings before, especially when my skittles bag was mysteriously thrashed in a kitchen drawer but saw nothing at the time but suddenly I could see them everywhere…it was.. gross.
I have had horrible allergies for a few months now, particularly my eyes, unable to wear by contacts and sometimes unable to go outside without sunglasses (which makes it hard when I can’t wear contacts with them aka, I can’t see anything).This isn’t normal for my allergies which are usually just a runny nose and the last time we were sick was about 3 weeks longer than it should have been. I’m starting to suspect that what has been causing all this trouble is the mouse/mice urine – a smell we may have overlooked with a cat box, old farty dog and indoor toilet (not saying it stinks in here but there are some moments..). As much as I love mice and rats, I think id rather be healthy than share my living space with them. In a cage I can clean up after them but in the house, they are just filling my breathing air with foulness.
Our mouse has friends.
Ross went out this morning during a random burst of rain to cover my motorcycle and saw a small mouse on the mat outside. He described it as very small, not like the one I had seen in the stove, but odd that it was just out there hanging out. When we went to work outside later in the morning like he always does, the same mouse came right up to his foot before scurrying back under the trailer. Over the next hour he saw it a few more times, standing under the stove area where the mice likely got into the trailer in the first place, looking confused as though it was trying to find a way back in. I wen’t out to look for it once and came back in, minutes later it was back hiding under one of the gas tanks we keep under the trailer. I got down on my stomach and looked carefully under the tank, expecting no luck of course. It wasn’t the mouse I had seen and Susa had traumatized, but a one or two week old baby mouse who could barely walk with coordination let alone run away. He must have fallen out or been thrown out of the trailer due to the new regulations and lack of crumbs in the trailer. (The hope was that they would leave the way they came, not starve, so we’re getting a live trap this week sometime.) If we didn’t know about our mouse problems already, it would have been even stranger to see a baby mouse wandering around under the trailer but as it is, it seemed perfectly reasonable.
I easily caught him and Ross ran inside to find a container for him. It wasn’t that we wanted him back in the trailer, he is just way too young to live outside on his own just yet. Me and Ross are both previous rat/mouse owners and can’t really see just kicking him to the curb unprepared. He’s barely weened and already thin.. just too sad. So… temporary pet it is – till he can run from danger at least. At least it’s not like raising baby squirrels, which is a long drawn out process and huge pain. I think in a week or so he’ll be ready to go. We are calling him Trevor.
I’ll take mice over Roaches any day. If we’re lucky, the mice have been eating the roaches because we haven’t seen any all summer (last summer there were plenty) so that will be one negative of getting rid of the mice, in will come the roaches.
Trevor the mouse
No pictures please, trying to sleep here…
p.s. We are not typically wildlife kidnappers but this guy is kind of our fault in a way…In a “we were a seemingly good place to setup and start a family for a couple of field mice” way.
We arrived at the Liberty Harbor RV Park in Jersey City on a Saturday evening with no idea what to expect. Our space was near a corner, harbor side, and backing in was pretty easy, the only debate being how much space to leave for the people who would show up behind us. We had read reviews about how small the spaces were but it didn’t seem like anyone had problems anywhere in the lot. There was plenty of room in the roads of the park for any size RV and we saw everything from coaches to tents in the week we were there, most people staying only a night or two. The roads also had to be wide to accommodate the boat cranes that drove down them occasionally (see the video of the boat crane in action).
A couple people managed to get out their awnings, partly by facing each other and parking as close as possible to the guide rail (slats of wood) but some people were lucky just to have enough room to get out their stairs. Everyone have room for slide-outs through, further taking stair space from their neighbors, but no one seemed to be complaining to each other so it worked out. The only problem we noticed was that some people possibly new to camping insisted on parking within a couple feet of their hookups, even though their cords and hoses would likely reach – therefore parking with our bikes at their front door rather than somewhere in the 20 feet of empty space ahead of them. We shared a corner with an amazingly arranged 3 other people, in some sort of vehicular gridlock, each spot long enough for everyone and their cars, in our case with the truck – is over 50 feet long (website says 45 foot spaces but we fit the truck and trailer fine in our spot without parking at an angle). So although the spots weren’t wide, they were plenty long and the managers knew what they were doing when they handed out spots. The people who had no electricity or water, who stayed in the parking lot on the other side of the fence, had plenty of space – but no A/C in most cases (unless they had an awesome generator).
The bathrooms were good, though some of the doors in the women’s bathrooms didn’t really close. The main door was secure by pin number and the showers fairly clean and spacious with good water pressure (just don’t touch the mildew covered shower curtain and it’s great). Camping full time makes you fairly tolerant of imperfect bathroom situations, I totally have a “wear some sandals and get over it” attitude at this point. Although RV parks are a service, if you keep your expectations a little lower and don’t expect everywhere to wipe your nose and pat you on the back, you’ll be much happier.
As for the name of the harbor, you guessed it, the Statue of Liberty is in there. Some reviews said that you couldn’t see the statue from the RV park but – I say to these people – “shutup – be happy you are staying in an RV park next to Manhattan Island” – AND you can see the statue from the entrance of the RV park next to the guard tower (yep there is a guard tower – there are like 5 million dollar yachts in that harbor). However the Statue of Liberty is super itty bitty. I was shocked as hell to see it in person (from the harbor) after having pictured it walking down the road in Ghostbusters or her head tumbling in the street in Cloverfield. My reality was a bit crushed when I saw her – Thanks France.. thanks allot.
All in all, we weren’t staying in an RV park in a harbor parking lot for the comforts and aesthetic of the park, there are no trees, the gravel is some horrible dark spiky mess but the roads between the rows of RV’s were paved and the surrounding opportunities of New York City, awesome.
Liberty Harbor RV Park and Marina (long exposure at night)
Liberty Harbor From Brooklyn – See how small she is!! (The RV park is somewhere near the center most lens flare)
NYC
Nothing can replace the location of this park so we were willing to put up with quite a bit for the opportunity to walk 2 blocks and get the Path train to Manhattan and be sitting at an awesome restaurant within 20 minutes. Since there wasn’t much to setup at the campsite, we got out of there as soon as the animals were comfortable and fed. We had no trouble finding the Path station and getting a metro card (though I think we should have got a smart pass). Using the maps on our phones, which had the numbers or letters of the trains and of course the names of the neighborhoods, we just headed to Greenwich Village since it was one of the first stops on Manhattan Island in a long list of places we had heard of before (from movies and TV haha). As soon as we got off the subway and walked a couple of blocks, we ended up finding Vegetarian Paradise II and after eating, spent the rest of the evening walking around the area.
Every day we were there (7 nights) we worked early and tried to leave the trailer around 5pm, spending the rest of the evening on subways to various places around the city that we had heard of so many times in films, books and TV. From Hell’s Kitchen, to China Town, to Brooklyn and Curry Hill, we walked miles nearly every night in search of nothing more than things to see and there was no shortage of that. We used a walking app some of the time (when my phone wasn’t dead and when I remembered to start it) to track some of our walking and made it into a map. We kept ending up at Times Square, a busy but ultimately fascinating place. The lights were as bright as daylight with ads the size of..well..more how I had imagined the Statue of Liberty, and excited tourists and shoppers filled the late night mega-stores overcrowded sidewalk (and of course Broadway theaters). The plazas themselves were surprisingly relaxed. One area had some bleachers full of people, who were apparently just resting and soaking in monster sized ads, and another had 2 chaired tables a concrete baseball mit filled with relaxing couples who were never left waiting for a spot.
One of my favorite memories of New York is our first night in town, we’re walking around times square and can’t decide where to walk next, so we stop on a corner and just look around at everything – trying not to get run over by the crowd. Across from us, a couple of men were up against a wall in front of sheets on the sidewalk filled with fake designer purses. One man randomly pulled up his sheet into a knapsack, looked around nervously and put it back down. A minute or so later, both men gathered up their sheets and started running through the crowd and down a side street. I look to see where the emergency was and saw two slow walking cops crossing the street towards us, shaking their heads and laughing in the direction of the purse peddlers – but indeed “following them”, though at a pace incapable of catching anyone. Maybe they were just walking that direction. It may not sound that interesting but to me it was straight out of a movie, and an exact stereotype of NYC – fulfilling some of my expectations early on in the trip, NY could never let me down after that. My second favorite part of walking around the 20 some miles over the week, was the rats. Real New York rats and sometimes mice – more fulfilled expectations, and cute furry ones.
Much of the time we were out walking it was night time, so I didn’t get as many photos as I wanted during the week but I did get some digital photos, videos and checked in at about 50 places on 4 square.
Every night we were out we had a great time looking at buildings and people, imagining NY through the eyes of John McClain (that’s Die Hard’s own – which we have all on blue ray) but also looked forward to Saturday when we could spend some time outside the Trailer and be in the city during the day. Unfortunately it was raining and not exactly warm on Saturday, but it didn’t stop us from heading out as soon as we got up (which wasn’t too early but earlier than a weekday). We had lunch at Vegetarian Paradise II for the last time and checked out the Lomography store in East Village. I stared longingly at the $500 Horizon Perfekt camera and bought a ring flash for my Holga. It took me a while of staring at the menagerie to come to terms with maybe never seeing a Lomo store again but I remembered that I could actually get everything there online, and cheaper, so I was ok with it in the end.
After East Village, we had planned to look at sneakers in Brooklyn, and what better place? Everyone know that’s where the coolest sneakers in the U.S. come from (well that was my assumption). The coolest shoes in Brooklyn actually happened to be in glass cases in what appeared to be pawn shops – but weren’t pawn shops, just strange shoe and bling dealers, and weren’t really what we were looking for. We were hoping for crazy Japanese only Nike and strange limited release shoes but most were fairly calm. We checked out a couple large shoe stores after the un-pawn shoe stores, Dr. Jays being one I had heard of online as being one of the best. Unfortunately we still didn’t find what we were looking for and left for Coney Island shoeless and wet – these weren’t bad things. “Shoeless and wet” meant we had saved ourselves some money and Coney Island wouldn’t be overrun by tourists and teenagers!
The ride to Coney Island was unexpectedly long but provided a great view of Brooklyn and following neighborhoods from an above ground view via the former subway train (the E line). When we got there we quickly found the boardwalk, a pier filled only with a few fishermen and a strange religious group having some kind of white robed drum fest. While looking for some batteries for my new ring flash, I found an awesome little store called Lola Star where a young entrepreneur had her own t-shirt designs for “I <3 NY”, “I <3 Coney Island” and more. I got one with a giant fat cat holding the Statue of Liberty in one paw, and the Empire State Building in the other that says “I Love NY”. If you have been to Coney Island or just want to check out her stuff, go to www.lolastar.com. She has some really cute “Coney-Islandesque” – sailor, beach, tattoo, carnival like designs. I love it.
We finally made it to the “carnival” section of the boardwalk and I was a bit disappointed. It’s obvious that Coney Island is suffering and much of the carnie history I longed to see is gone, but overall it was still a really cute place. There was really nothing we could eat on the boardwalk but there were a few bars and the beach looked inviting, although the weather said otherwise.
Coney Island Beach
Coney Island Wonder Wheel
Train Station Coney Island
Coney Island Pier
The last night in town, we were both getting fairly sick from the abuse, 3 day heat wave and low quality air warning, then the rain. We decided to spend our last night just driving around the Manhattan, being wary of what streets we could even fit down, but getting a chance to see some places we’d missed, like Harlem. This was the first time we had used the truck all week since we had the Path train just a couple blocks away, and good thing we had the train because it was a $16 toll to get into the city. We wanted to see Williamsburg and the Bronx but had developed a fear of the tolls and had plenty of driving to do from lower Manhattan where we crossed over, to the top of Manhattan Island around Harlem. Ross did great in the city traffic, pushing his way in like a dump truck when cabbies thought they could bully their way past us. There weren’t a whole lot of big trucks aside from delivery and construction vehicles in the city but as long as we stayed on the main roads, it didn’t seem to matter. In the neighborhoods, some with much older and smaller streets, it may have been a different story.
By the time we got home, we had a lot of packing up to do to leave in the morning. We were much sicker by then and sad to leave a city we had enjoyed so much. We had walked over 20 miles, eaten at some of the best Vegetarian places in the country and seen almost every neighborhood we had heard of, and all in a week, mostly in the evenings. We definitely want to return and see more, maybe even have a real vacation there (staying at Liberty Harbor of course). New York is definitely my favorite North American city, so far.
We found a place to camp just across from Manhattan in Jersey City, in Liberty Harbor where the statue of liberty stands. We are just a 10 minute train ride from New York City (I could totally live here). I will write a blog soon, but for now, some photos of the first few days, in which we have been walking constantly after work untill about 1 in the morning around every neighbourhood we can think of to visit. More to come!
We arrived a the Smokey Bear Campground on a Saturday, after our stress filled drive through the mountains. It was a relatively warm, sunny day. We had somehow avoided a major storm system due to hit Asheville. After we setup the trailer, inside and out, and made the animals happy, we headed into Gatlinburg with almost no idea what to expect. We don’t generally travel based on what’s in the towns we go to but rather what they’re near to – places like The Everglades, “anywhere with alligators” or the Smoky Mountains, so although we knew Gatlinburg was different by looking at it a bit on google maps, we had no idea what a circus of a town it would be.
We started by driving through the center of town, the street were filled with meandering tourists and their hyperactive kids, adorned with brightly colored spray paint tees, funnel cakes and bags full of quirky “Smoky Mountain” memorabilia. We decided to park in a garage at the farthest end or town and take our chances walking to find a place to eat. As usual, searching for places that have vegetarian food in a small tourist town can be hit or miss (usually miss) so we headed to a place that had pizza. It was appropriately called, Smoky Mountain Brewery, and oddly our waiter and several other people working there were German. In many ways Gatlinburg reminded me of the German settled Fredericksburg, Texas, though with a lot less reference to its German origins. Since it was a Saturday, the restaurant was full, as was every place in the 8 blocks of downtown Gatlinburg, from Fudge Shoppe to Olde Tyme Photo Studio (Gatlinburg has about 20 of these). The pizza was actually pretty good, a veggie with white sauce and lots of tobasco. We went home with leftovers and a little bewildered from all the sights and sounds. Compared to the places we usually stay, Gatlinburg was to us, like a dance party is to a slug .
Having previously been excited about seeing the Movie Car museum and the Ripley’s Believe it or Not franchise, we realized that just walking past these places was almost as good. One of Ripley’s many buildings had great and creepy animatronic circus folk outside, luring people in with their surreal, desaturated demeanors. And the Movie Car Museum had the Dukes of Hazard car and Herbie the Love Bug parked right in the doorway- what more could you want from a Museum that most likely holds none of the original cars anyway. I was more interested in a small dose of people watching, than the attractions themselves. Although the main event is that Gatlinburg is the “Gateway to the Smokies”, and that was the supposed reason many people were there, the majority of people didn’t seem like the “hiking in the mountains” types and I suspect many of them were on a little day trip from Pigeon Forge, where they went to Dollywood, watched hillbilly family feud reenactments like the Hatfield & McCoy theater show, went to the Titanic Museum and had Southern BBQ every day. This may some of my anti tourist sentiment. Travelers and tourists are very different. At the same time, I don’t really blame anyone for wanting to get the hell our of their routines, kids and all, and go somewhere where they can just tune out, I just wish people wouldn’t encourage the atrocities that happen in downtown Gatlinburg and main street Pigeon Forge. Off the main strip, Gatlinburg can be really pretty.
Downtown Gatlinburg, Tennessee
Gatlinburg Downtown & The Space Needle
On Sunday, we headed straight for the park. We stopped at the Visitor Center where there was a small display of stuffed local flora and fauna, from poisonous plants to strange exotic flowers to the large and woolly, wild boar. From there we headed, whichever direction seemed interesting, and saw the signs for numerous trails, but the first one we pulled off the road for was probably my favorite. It was a seemingly uninteresting trail, but our first in the Smokies. It just sort of headed up a hill into the trees, no creek or cliff side to be seen, but the eerie lighting was great. The southern forests always make me think of epic and overly emotional independent films (sometimes horror films). Generally any film where the forests provides a creepy mood throughout (this is a good thing, I love movies). The climb took us to the top of a low peak with a fairly nice view. There was a small clearing with unmarked stones placed in rows, and for some reason, it took seeing a name on one of the stones to register that we had come across a cemetery – on a trail, on a mountain, in a National Forest. I imagined a family from 140 years ago who used to live on this land before it was a National Park, but the strangeness of a headstone from as recently as 1992 said whoever’s cemetery it was, was still somewhat around. We joked that someone must have snuck the body up the hill one night, headstone in tow, to put them in the family cemetery. How else does one get buried on National land? I know if I had 7 generations of family buried in a private cemetery in the Smoky Mountains with a great view I would.. somehow.. hmm.. maybe getting too morbid here.
The next place we came across was the Laurel Falls trail. There was actual parking for this trail, lots, and several cars already there. We brought only our regular walking shoes, mine flat black Keds and Ross with some worn out Asics. This didn’t actually matter though, the trail was relatively wide, paved and occupied by some of the larger and more elderly tourists that I thought I’d never see off the streets of Gatlinburg. Surprisingly, the trail wasn’t as short and easy as I expected. It was about 1.3 miles each way, a steady climb though with little to no risk to life or limb. Along the way we ran out of water, unprepared to need more than one bottle, and filled it from a small waterfall coming out of the rocks. When we reached Laurel Falls, there was a bridge over the water and about 15 people lingering about. Some resting, others taking photos. We looked around for a place to sit and opted for the more inaccessible lower falls, which could only be reached by maneuvering down a rocky cliff side trail, difficult with flat soled slippery shoes, but worth it to see the jealous faces of the people above who were unable or unwilling to climb down.
Lower Laurel Falls
After Laurel Falls, we continued our drive into the park, finding a campsite we could never stay at (because of our need for internet for work), and stopped for a cold pizza picnic next to a postcard perfect creek – complete with a fly fishing Boy Scout and dorky swimming teenage girls (there weren’t many places to pull off the road). We watched the young boy continuously get his fly caught in the trees, and quietly laughed as we watched the girls’ sandals float down stream. The ants had left us alone and it was time to move on. We had time for one more trail before heading back to check on the animals. This trail was marked and had some parking, but was ultimately unchallenging. Really a perfect trail for the end of the day and a great place to see some of the flowers and insects of the park. The trail basically stayed on even ground, leading into an “open” meadow filled with amusingly placed fallen trees and enough sunlight for life to be interested in.
We headed home to our lonely pets after that. Dreading the work week ahead but with 3 more weekends in the Smokies to look forward to and a great view, we couldn’t complain too much. Our campsite, right across from the park, and neighbour with 15 bird feeders, would prove to be a great view while we worked.
Chena at Smokey Bear Campground, Gatlinburg Tennessee
