Vegetarian Travel

Jersey City Camping: Liberty Harbor RV Park

Published on by Katya in the category out and about, RV Parks, Vegetarian Travel | 2 Comments


The RV Park

We arrived at the Liberty Harbor RV Park in Jersey City on a Saturday evening with no idea what to expect. Our space was near a corner, harbor side, and backing in was pretty easy, the only debate being how much space to leave for the people who would show up behind us. We had read reviews about how small the spaces were but it didn’t seem like anyone had problems anywhere in the lot. There was plenty of room in the roads of the park for any size RV and we saw everything from coaches to tents in the week we were there, most people staying only a night or two. The roads also had to be wide to accommodate the boat cranes that drove down them occasionally (see the video of the boat crane in action).

A couple people managed to get out their awnings, partly by facing each other and parking as close as possible to the guide rail (slats of wood) but some people were lucky just to have enough room to get out their stairs. Everyone have room for slide-outs through, further taking stair space from their neighbors, but no one seemed to be complaining to each other so it worked out. The only problem we noticed was that some people possibly new to camping insisted on parking within a couple feet of their hookups, even though their cords and hoses would likely reach – therefore parking with our bikes at their front door rather than somewhere in the 20 feet of empty space ahead of them. We shared a corner with an amazingly arranged 3 other people, in some sort of vehicular gridlock, each spot long enough for everyone and their cars, in our case with the truck – is over 50 feet long (website says 45 foot spaces but we fit the truck and trailer fine in our spot without parking at an angle). So although the spots weren’t wide, they were plenty long and the managers knew what they were doing when they handed out spots. The people who had no electricity or water, who stayed in the parking lot on the other side of the fence, had plenty of space – but no A/C in most cases (unless they had an awesome generator).

The bathrooms were good, though some of the doors in the women’s bathrooms didn’t really close. The main door was secure by pin number and the showers fairly clean and spacious with good water pressure (just don’t touch the mildew covered shower curtain and it’s great). Camping full time makes you fairly tolerant of imperfect bathroom situations, I totally have a “wear some sandals and get over it” attitude at this point. Although RV parks are a service, if you keep your expectations a little lower and don’t expect everywhere to wipe your nose and pat you on the back, you’ll be much happier.

As for the name of the harbor, you guessed it, the Statue of Liberty is in there. Some reviews said that you couldn’t see the statue from the RV park but – I say to these people – “shutup – be happy you are staying in an RV park next to Manhattan Island” – AND you can see the statue from the entrance of the RV park next to the guard tower (yep there is a guard tower – there are like 5 million dollar yachts in that harbor). However the Statue of Liberty is super itty bitty. I was shocked as hell to see it in person (from the harbor) after having pictured it walking down the road in Ghostbusters or her head tumbling in the street in Cloverfield. My reality was a bit crushed when I saw her – Thanks France.. thanks allot.

All in all, we weren’t staying in an RV park in a harbor parking lot for the comforts and aesthetic of the park, there are no trees, the gravel is some horrible dark spiky mess but the roads between the rows of RV’s were paved and the surrounding opportunities of New York City, awesome.

Liberty Harbor RV Park and Marina

Liberty Harbor RV Park and Marina (long exposure at night)

Liberty Harbor From Brooklyn

Liberty Harbor From Brooklyn – See how small she is!! (The RV park is somewhere near the center most lens flare)

NYC

Nothing can replace the location of this park so we were willing to put up with quite a bit for the opportunity to walk 2 blocks and get the Path train to Manhattan and be sitting at an awesome restaurant within 20 minutes. Since there wasn’t much to setup at the campsite, we got out of there as soon as the animals were comfortable and fed. We had no trouble finding the Path station and getting a metro card (though I think we should have got a smart pass). Using the maps on our phones, which had the numbers or letters of the trains and of course the names of the neighborhoods, we just headed to Greenwich Village since it was one of the first stops on Manhattan Island in a long list of places we had heard of before (from movies and TV haha). As soon as we got off the subway and walked a couple of blocks, we ended up finding Vegetarian Paradise II and after eating, spent the rest of the evening walking around the area.

Every day we were there (7 nights) we worked early and tried to leave the trailer around 5pm, spending the rest of the evening on subways to various places around the city that we had heard of so many times in films, books and TV. From Hell’s Kitchen, to China Town, to Brooklyn and Curry Hill, we walked miles nearly every night in search of nothing more than things to see and there was no shortage of that. We used a walking app some of the time (when my phone wasn’t dead and when I remembered to start it) to track some of our walking and made it into a map. We kept ending up at Times Square, a busy but ultimately fascinating place. The lights were as bright as daylight with ads the size of..well..more how I had imagined the Statue of Liberty, and excited tourists and shoppers filled the late night mega-stores overcrowded sidewalk (and of course Broadway theaters). The plazas themselves were surprisingly relaxed. One area had some bleachers full of people, who were apparently just resting and soaking in monster sized ads, and another had 2 chaired tables a concrete baseball mit filled with relaxing couples who were never left waiting for a spot.
One of my favorite memories of New York is our first night in town, we’re walking around times square and can’t decide where to walk next, so we stop on a corner and just look around at everything – trying not to get run over by the crowd. Across from us, a couple of men were up against a wall in front of sheets on the sidewalk filled with fake designer purses. One man randomly pulled up his sheet into a knapsack, looked around nervously and put it back down. A minute or so later, both men gathered up their sheets and started running through the crowd and down a side street. I look to see where the emergency was and saw two slow walking cops crossing the street towards us, shaking their heads and laughing in the direction of the purse peddlers – but indeed “following them”, though at a pace incapable of catching anyone. Maybe they were just walking that direction. It may not sound that interesting but to me it was straight out of a movie, and an exact stereotype of NYC – fulfilling some of my expectations early on in the trip, NY could never let me down after that. My second favorite part of walking around the 20 some miles over the week, was the rats. Real New York rats and sometimes mice – more fulfilled expectations, and cute furry ones.

New York Walking trips with Endomondo

Much of the time we were out walking it was night time, so I didn’t get as many photos as I wanted during the week but I did get some digital photos, videos and checked in at about 50 places on 4 square.

Droid Photos & Videos


Subway, NY

Every night we were out we had a great time looking at buildings and people, imagining NY through the eyes of John McClain (that’s Die Hard’s own – which we have all on blue ray) but also looked forward to Saturday when we could spend some time outside the Trailer and be in the city during the day. Unfortunately it was raining and not exactly warm on Saturday, but it didn’t stop us from heading out as soon as we got up (which wasn’t too early but earlier than a weekday). We had lunch at Vegetarian Paradise II for the last time and checked out the Lomography store in East Village. I stared longingly at the $500 Horizon Perfekt camera and bought a ring flash for my Holga. It took me a while of staring at the menagerie to come to terms with maybe never seeing a Lomo store again but I remembered that I could actually get everything there online, and cheaper, so I was ok with it in the end.

After East Village, we had planned to look at sneakers in Brooklyn, and what better place? Everyone know that’s where the coolest sneakers in the U.S. come from (well that was my assumption). The coolest shoes in Brooklyn actually happened to be in glass cases in what appeared to be pawn shops – but weren’t pawn shops, just strange shoe and bling dealers, and weren’t really what we were looking for. We were hoping for crazy Japanese only Nike and strange limited release shoes but most were fairly calm. We checked out a couple large shoe stores after the un-pawn shoe stores, Dr. Jays being one I had heard of online as being one of the best. Unfortunately we still didn’t find what we were looking for and left for Coney Island shoeless and wet – these weren’t bad things. “Shoeless and wet” meant we had saved ourselves some money and Coney Island wouldn’t be overrun by tourists and teenagers!

The ride to Coney Island was unexpectedly long but provided a great view of Brooklyn and following neighborhoods from an above ground view via the former subway train (the E line). When we got there we quickly found the boardwalk, a pier filled only with a few fishermen and a strange religious group having some kind of white robed drum fest. While looking for some batteries for my new ring flash, I found an awesome little store called Lola Star where a young entrepreneur had her own t-shirt designs for “I <3 NY”, “I <3 Coney Island” and more. I got one with a giant fat cat holding the Statue of Liberty in one paw, and the Empire State Building in the other that says “I Love NY”. If you have been to Coney Island or just want to check out her stuff, go to www.lolastar.com. She has some really cute “Coney-Islandesque” – sailor, beach, tattoo, carnival like designs. I love it.

We finally made it to the “carnival” section of the boardwalk and I was a bit disappointed. It’s obvious that Coney Island is suffering and much of the carnie history I longed to see is gone, but overall it was still a really cute place. There was really nothing we could eat on the boardwalk but there were a few bars and the beach looked inviting, although the weather said otherwise.

Coney Island Beach 

Coney Island Beach

 

Coney Island Beach

 

Coney Island Wonder Wheel

 

Coney Island Wonder Wheel

Train Station Coney Island

Train Station Coney Island

Coney Island Pier

Coney Island Pier

The last night in town, we were both getting fairly sick from the abuse, 3 day heat wave and low quality air warning, then the rain. We decided to spend our last night just driving around the Manhattan, being wary of what streets we could even fit down, but getting a chance to see some places we’d missed, like Harlem. This was the first time we had used the truck all week since we had the Path train just a couple blocks away, and good thing we had the train because it was a $16 toll to get into the city. We wanted to see Williamsburg and the Bronx but had developed a fear of the tolls and had plenty of driving to do from lower Manhattan where we crossed over, to the top of Manhattan Island around Harlem. Ross did great in the city traffic, pushing his way in like a dump truck when cabbies thought they could bully their way past us. There weren’t a whole lot of big trucks aside from delivery and construction vehicles in the city but as long as we stayed on the main roads, it didn’t seem to matter. In the neighborhoods, some with much older and smaller streets, it may have been a different story.

By the time we got home, we had a lot of packing up to do to leave in the morning. We were much sicker by then and sad to leave a city we had enjoyed so much. We had walked over 20 miles, eaten at some of the best Vegetarian places in the country and seen almost every neighborhood we had heard of, and all in a week, mostly in the evenings. We definitely want to return and see more, maybe even have a real vacation there (staying at Liberty Harbor of course). New York is definitely my favorite North American city, so far.

Asheville, North Carolina: The Vegetarian South’s first in line.

Published on by Katya in the category food, Vegetarian Travel | 1 Comment

Since we are vegan/vegetarian, it’s been a constant point of ours to check the vegetarian options in each town we go to. It’s never a deterrent if there isn’t anything around. It would ridiculous to miss the Everglades just because we couldn’t get Tofurkey lunch meat nearby (even if it is Susa’s favorite). Not having a ton of restaurants or a Whole Foods to go to usually just means we save a bunch of money. You can find tofu and garden burgers in the most surprising towns in the country and to many people’s surprise, vegetarians can survive quite easily almost anywhere.

That being said, when we do find a town that has a really great vegetarian scene, we usually get pretty excited. And of all the towns we’ve stayed in in the last year and a half, Asheville has got every other city in the south beat when it comes to vegetarian options. Cities four times its size have nothing on Asheville for grocery store and restaurant options. You can often count Indian food and Chinese food as “vegetarian” because there are usually more than one good option there, but even without counting Asian food, Asheville has a heaping handful of cafes and restaurants to make west coast hippie towns blush.

The first place we went was the Green Sage Cafe, the first cafe on our way into downtown from Taps RV Park. The Green Sage was fairly busy, gathered foot traffic, tourists and locals in its convenient location near the Court Plaza, Shopping and of course some great local brew pubs. Its a “bus your own table” kind of place, with local art on the walls and a variety of seating. We usually sat befuddled beneath an average looking bicycle suspended from the ceiling. Not an antique, not surprisingly nice, just a bike with a basket on it. The food was good, though a little more expensive than we expected. After eating out several times in Asheville, we realized this wasn’t an isolated incident. I ordered a breakfast burrito and Ross a breakfast scramble (both with tofu). My coffee was not amazing and cooled quickly in its giant cup, but coffee didn’t really seem to be their thing. Overall I don’t remember being impressed though we did go back a couple more times, unable to stay away from the possibility of breakfast (even if we ate it at 3pm).

Green Light Cafe Asheville, NCThe second place we went was nicer than our usual places, The Green Light Cafe. It was more like a “european cafe in an art gallery” than what I expected from a vegetarian cafe but it proved a place can be both nice and vegetarian without being expensive or “health nut – elitist” vegetarian. The server was really nice and helpful, the place was quiet and open, and the food was amazing. I got the special, a chili relleno dish and Ross got the enchilada – “Saucy beans and greens baked in a sprouted tortilla, smothered with our homemade nutty mole & your choice of daiya vegan cheese or cheddar.” Not many places offer vegan cheese so that was a big plus, and the homemade mole was just the right amount of sweet and nutty. We only went there once but would defiantly try more things if we visit Asheville again.

The restaurant we visited the most was Rosetta’s Kitchen. It’s a marginally small place, average for a vegetarian cafe, with a small kitchen and one person running the till. What I liked most about this place was its typical vegetarian cafe attitude of “we make you huge plate of excellent food – you get your own cutlery and bus your own tables”. I definitely think more restaurants should adopt that business model. It saves the place hiring more people, therefore allowing them to charge less for potentially expensive plates and leaves people to feed and take care of themselves unharassed by a tip desperate waiter. I enjoy cooking and good food, and have an appreciation for people who work in the service industry. Possibly my experiences and perspective are a bit skewed.
The food at Rosetta’s was amazing. We get burned out on eating garden burgers, especially during our first year when it was often the only thing we could get eating out, but of all the options on the menu I decided to go for just that. They claimed on the menu it was “famous” and that always means they make it themselves. This can vary from place to place, a homemade burger can be full of grains and falling apart, bursting with little more than undercooked black beans and dry as a cotton ball, but sometimes homemade burgers are surprisingly moist and flavorful with just the right amount of everything. This was one of those burgers. I added jalapeños and cheese to make my favorite combination, and besides the fact that the jalapeños were barely hot, the burger was great. Ross got The Family Favorite, Peanut butter baked tofu, smashed potatoes and gravy and sautéed kale. Of course I had to steal some, tasty as expected. So far my favorite vegetarian meals in the South have been the “home cooking” style meals with things like pecan crusted seitan steak, grits with nutritional yeast and of course some good greens/kale cooked in a way I can only dream of accomplishing. Gravy is always a highlight of one of these dishes and the gravy on the The Family Favorite may be nearly my favorite. We asked the cashier what was in the gravy (to make sure it wasn’t a mushroom gravy) and practically got the whole recipe. I of course memorized this simple concoction and plan to work on and improve upon it over time (nutritional yeast, flour, fresh sage, salt, soy milk). In my version there will definitely be breakfast sausage, as soon as I see some around. After gorging ourselves on this meal, we eyeballed the cakes in the case by the register and wished we had room. On our next visit we made the mistake of buying the Indian and Pad Thai bowls, when we should have got the plates and took some home (for just a little $ more) but it worked out because we then had room for a huge piece of chocolate cake with strawberry frosting. The kind of frosting that sends me into sugary seizures, but a good rich frosting (not real seizures, more like a reaction when eating a lemon, but with sweet things instead).
On other visited we tried various things but my favorite is still the Ruben sandwich with grilled marinated local made tempeh, homemade sauerkraut (from red cabbage) and Swiss cheese smothered in a herb-walnut sauce on homemade rye focaccia. As with all of downtown Asheville, parking is pretty bad on a weekend unless you pay for a lot, but luckily we always found parking just a block from Mellow Mushroom (which we never made it to) and within 8 blocks of everything else.

There were about 5 more places we never made it to and a couple that were more expensive or too busy for our mood. Then there was Doc Chey’s Noodle House, a place with lots of good reviews but ended up being a disappointment (please don’t put jalapeños in your Thai food when I ask for ‘Hot’).

Asheville is also great for beer lovers with several brew pubs in the downtown area and of course, wine and whiskey bars run rampant downtown. Our favorite being the one we almost walked past, a hole in the wall with a dark entrance and black door (still don’t know the name but I checked in on Foursquare at “The Dirty South” while there).

Scully's Bar 13 West Walnut Street, Asheville, NC (828) 251-8880 ‎

Scully's Bar 13 West Walnut Street

Given more time, I would have also visited:
Firestorm Cafe, Laughing Seen Cafe, Tupelo Honey (on a slow night) and Early Girl Eatery.
These are still just a few of the options available in Asheville and why it’s definitely leading the South that I’ve seen so far in vegetarian concentration and quality.

We always hope to see more of this on our travels and places like Asheville are definitely at the top of our lists of places we would recommend to other vegetarians, health geeks or basically anyone who loves food, good beer, nature, shopping and a town designed for foot traffic.