Wednesday was to be the really painful day, where we would have to clean the cabin well enough to pass is off as a vacation home again. I hadn’t cleaned the cabin in a while, just minor cleaning in anticipation of the move. I knew I would be vacuuming everything in the house, from pillows to cushions to couches, to crevasses, trying to get rid of every single piece of cat hair. We went over around 10am, taking our computers with us, but I never turned mine on. I couldn’t wait to get the job done and have the whole thing over with. We actually finished everything that we could think of by around 2:30; Apparently cleaning a house is easier and quicker than cleaning a trailer. The trailer has so many details, spaces, gaps, cabinets, each one full of dust and hair…a winter’s worth of dirt. Now that all the worse parts are over, and the trailer is moved, we just have the deposit on the cabin to sort out.

My only plan for the evening, after cleaning the cabin and a full weekend of cleaning and lifting things, was to sit in a hot tub at Tiger Run for at least an hour – but the locker rooms, and therefore the pool and hot tubs, were closed and will be for another day or so. The trailer hot water heater is only good for about a 5 minute shower ( I timed it) so there will be no muscle relief there. Time for an Aleve and an ice pack.

next.
1. Meet ex-landlords tomorrow (?)
2. Leave town Saturday morning!!!

Wide angle view inside the trailer (cell phone)

We left Carbondale, a surprisingly cool little Illinois town, with a somewhat set plan to make several 2 week and 1 week jumps through Missouri, Kansas, Colorado then finally Jackson. I even made a google map and planned the towns and RV parks we would probably stay at but as is our nature, a night or 2 before we left, we decided Kansas City had little to offer in Green areas (google maps state parks and national forests) and what it did have to offer had no water or sewer hookups.

We changed our plans and decided to spend the weekend driving to Dodge City, Kansas, crossing almost 2 states.
It may have been under 700 miles but it’s tough on the truck, animals and us to go that far – and who knows how Susa manages not to pee all over the truck when we make jumps like that. We have a catbox in the back of the truck but she hates the thing and just sleeps next to Chena (usually after a 20 minute meow-fest when we leave a place) and just holds it the entire time, snacking on treats here and there and sleeping in strange positions. Much of our time is lost when We have to stop every 70 miles or so for drinks, gas and to let Chena out to pee.

Somewhere in East Kansas

On the way to Dodge City, while finding out things about the town, I saw that Willie Nelson would be playing at the Dodge City amphitheater. I grew up on his voice and have over the years grown to appreciate his music, as well as many other ‘original’ country artist (like Dolly and Hank Williams), so I bought us some tickets for what would be the first live music we’ve seen in the 2 years on the road, minus the brithday party at Smokey Bear Campground in Gatlinburg for the owner, Chong, where our neighbor, a guy from the Tonuenes, and the guy who wrote the King of the Hill song played a couple sets.

Minus the concert, which was pretty great and opened by Junior Brown, a country rock master of a custom steel guitar, the first week in Dodge City was all work, warm days and cool nights. The park, Gunsmoke RV Park, was a bit of a gravel pit but had some serious southwest/high plains charm that we had missed over the last 18 months or so. Wagon wheels, cowboy cutouts, false front buildings, horses and even cactus were somewhat evenly placed around the scrubby campground. Dodge City itself overall wasn’t quite as cool but definitely was holding onto its historic roots as a town of gunslingers and lawmen like Wyatt Earp. The downtown and Boot Hill made up for the highway full of fast food, motels, and coffee shops that charge way too much for coffee and vegetables on a bagel.

Gunsmoke RV Park

We again changed our plans and decided to leave Saturday rather than spend our usual 2 weeks, partly because of the lack of nearby hiking or outdoor actifities, but also because of our rush to get to a cabin. As far as things to do in town, there is basically the Boot Hill Museum and little more. The museum is basically an entire small western town with cemetery, jail, church, school house – and a working bar and restaurant. There was almost no one else in the Museum and no guides which was great. You were just left to your own devices to wander around, poke at exhibits and artifacts, and even, yes, get a beer (piano player and all). It was 94 degrees on that last day in Dodge City and the last bit of real heat we will see for a long while.

The Long Branch Saloon in Dodge City

Ross locked up in Boothill Jail

Boot Hill

I always try to picture myself living many of the places we stay, thinking I could make the best of even the smallest and least cultureless towns, and although Dodge City wasn’t very modern, it had internet, coffee and an awesome, though short lived, history that they’re proud of  (the 1870s made it famous basically), I can imagine making an effort at helping that place into the 21st century, without it turning into some horrible place like Gatlinburg or Virginia Beach – places where any sense of culture and history has been replaced by novelty mugs and “authentic local art” (soullessly manufactured by some poor artist, strictly to appeal to tourists so they can make it through another off season).

Although Iv’e heard Kansas referred to as a “fly over state/drive by state”, I liked it. It disturbs me that nearly all of the state is privately owned by farmers and ranchers and not a single wild bison roams free anywhere where there used to be millions, but it still brought up thoughts of western films and old west history, and somehow kept me from cringing too much. Plus it reminds me of eastern Montana where I lived for a few years and my sister’s family is from. A flat golden place where the skyline goes on for miles and miles (hence the Big Sky State), the sunsets are always inspiring and the terrain will surprise you with canyons, cactus and rattle snakes.

But we left the high plains Sunday morning, and were on our way to Colorado anyway. Again I spent much of the drive looking for RV parks or campgrounds, with all the same issues lately, no running water (what?) and no sewer (not that odd), or places that were booked solid or even closed for the season already (its still 80 in Denver so that was odd). After spending more time staring at my phone screen than I like to during a drive (a time where I’d rather be staring outside and pointing at cragly trees in fields of cows and looking for antelope) I gave up on finding something near Denver and we opted for Tiger Run RV Resort in Breckenridge, a place far up in the mountains west of Denver 80 miles. Inconvenient because we wanted to look for a new truck in Denver, but convenient because of the price and its great distance from the massive amounts of people in Denver. We called ahead and got our spot, knowing it would be late when we arrived, and made our once reasonable day trip into one around 470 miles.

The truck nearly choked and died on the way up the mountains and is now leaking oil. It took a beating while climbing  upwards of 10k feet, making 6 degree descents and climbs, one for 6 miles straight – probably working harder than the truck has ever had to work. We arrived around 11pm, having seen none of our mountainous trip, worn out as ever and worried about the truck. We spent a while setting up, the weather significantly colder than Denver already, and went to bed curious about our new 2 week home.

Luckily, we woke up to this and there were no more regrets about finding a place so far from Denver and our Jackson Wyoming route (try to ignore the RV in the picture, this place has a large number of owned spots with stored RV’s and empty Chalet’s).

Tiger Run RV Resort

So here we are, and basically everywhere you look looks like this or closer (in proximity). From downtown you can see the ski runs and Breckenridge offers more to do, and more vegetarian options than any town I can remember since maybe Asheville, NC. Thank you Western U.S.!!!  So, since we like it so much.. we’ve been looking for cabins here and should have a code tomorrow to go inside one highest up on the list. We may not make it to Jackson (or probably Victor Idaho area) after all, but who cares. Apparently there is almost no cell reception for Verizon there and we have 2 verizon phones and 2 mifi units, which cost us enough every month that it would be a waste to pay for them and not be able to use them just for cheaper rent. Plus when you can take a bus to town year round, get 11mb internet (and probably higher but that’s what the cafe we go to gets)… great views..less gas costs because everything is close.. why go to East Idaho. Wish us luck that this place is awesome tomorrow.

We arrived at the Liberty Harbor RV Park in Jersey City on a Saturday evening with no idea what to expect. Our space was near a corner, harbor side, and backing in was pretty easy, the only debate being how much space to leave for the people who would show up behind us. We had read reviews about how small the spaces were but it didn’t seem like anyone had problems anywhere in the lot. There was plenty of room in the roads of the park for any size RV and we saw everything from coaches to tents in the week we were there, most people staying only a night or two. The roads also had to be wide to accommodate the boat cranes that drove down them occasionally (see the video of the boat crane in action).

A couple people managed to get out their awnings, partly by facing each other and parking as close as possible to the guide rail (slats of wood) but some people were lucky just to have enough room to get out their stairs. Everyone have room for slide-outs through, further taking stair space from their neighbors, but no one seemed to be complaining to each other so it worked out. The only problem we noticed was that some people possibly new to camping insisted on parking within a couple feet of their hookups, even though their cords and hoses would likely reach – therefore parking with our bikes at their front door rather than somewhere in the 20 feet of empty space ahead of them. We shared a corner with an amazingly arranged 3 other people, in some sort of vehicular gridlock, each spot long enough for everyone and their cars, in our case with the truck – is over 50 feet long (website says 45 foot spaces but we fit the truck and trailer fine in our spot without parking at an angle). So although the spots weren’t wide, they were plenty long and the managers knew what they were doing when they handed out spots. The people who had no electricity or water, who stayed in the parking lot on the other side of the fence, had plenty of space – but no A/C in most cases (unless they had an awesome generator).

The bathrooms were good, though some of the doors in the women’s bathrooms didn’t really close. The main door was secure by pin number and the showers fairly clean and spacious with good water pressure (just don’t touch the mildew covered shower curtain and it’s great). Camping full time makes you fairly tolerant of imperfect bathroom situations, I totally have a “wear some sandals and get over it” attitude at this point. Although RV parks are a service, if you keep your expectations a little lower and don’t expect everywhere to wipe your nose and pat you on the back, you’ll be much happier.

As for the name of the harbor, you guessed it, the Statue of Liberty is in there. Some reviews said that you couldn’t see the statue from the RV park but – I say to these people – “shutup – be happy you are staying in an RV park next to Manhattan Island” – AND you can see the statue from the entrance of the RV park next to the guard tower (yep there is a guard tower – there are like 5 million dollar yachts in that harbor). However the Statue of Liberty is super itty bitty. I was shocked as hell to see it in person (from the harbor) after having pictured it walking down the road in Ghostbusters or her head tumbling in the street in Cloverfield. My reality was a bit crushed when I saw her – Thanks France.. thanks allot.

All in all, we weren’t staying in an RV park in a harbor parking lot for the comforts and aesthetic of the park, there are no trees, the gravel is some horrible dark spiky mess but the roads between the rows of RV’s were paved and the surrounding opportunities of New York City, awesome.

Liberty Harbor RV Park and Marina (long exposure at night)

Liberty Harbor From Brooklyn – See how small she is!! (The RV park is somewhere near the center most lens flare)

NYC

Nothing can replace the location of this park so we were willing to put up with quite a bit for the opportunity to walk 2 blocks and get the Path train to Manhattan and be sitting at an awesome restaurant within 20 minutes. Since there wasn’t much to setup at the campsite, we got out of there as soon as the animals were comfortable and fed. We had no trouble finding the Path station and getting a metro card (though I think we should have got a smart pass). Using the maps on our phones, which had the numbers or letters of the trains and of course the names of the neighborhoods, we just headed to Greenwich Village since it was one of the first stops on Manhattan Island in a long list of places we had heard of before (from movies and TV haha). As soon as we got off the subway and walked a couple of blocks, we ended up finding Vegetarian Paradise II and after eating, spent the rest of the evening walking around the area.

Every day we were there (7 nights) we worked early and tried to leave the trailer around 5pm, spending the rest of the evening on subways to various places around the city that we had heard of so many times in films, books and TV. From Hell’s Kitchen, to China Town, to Brooklyn and Curry Hill, we walked miles nearly every night in search of nothing more than things to see and there was no shortage of that. We used a walking app some of the time (when my phone wasn’t dead and when I remembered to start it) to track some of our walking and made it into a map. We kept ending up at Times Square, a busy but ultimately fascinating place. The lights were as bright as daylight with ads the size of..well..more how I had imagined the Statue of Liberty, and excited tourists and shoppers filled the late night mega-stores overcrowded sidewalk (and of course Broadway theaters). The plazas themselves were surprisingly relaxed. One area had some bleachers full of people, who were apparently just resting and soaking in monster sized ads, and another had 2 chaired tables a concrete baseball mit filled with relaxing couples who were never left waiting for a spot.
One of my favorite memories of New York is our first night in town, we’re walking around times square and can’t decide where to walk next, so we stop on a corner and just look around at everything – trying not to get run over by the crowd. Across from us, a couple of men were up against a wall in front of sheets on the sidewalk filled with fake designer purses. One man randomly pulled up his sheet into a knapsack, looked around nervously and put it back down. A minute or so later, both men gathered up their sheets and started running through the crowd and down a side street. I look to see where the emergency was and saw two slow walking cops crossing the street towards us, shaking their heads and laughing in the direction of the purse peddlers – but indeed “following them”, though at a pace incapable of catching anyone. Maybe they were just walking that direction. It may not sound that interesting but to me it was straight out of a movie, and an exact stereotype of NYC – fulfilling some of my expectations early on in the trip, NY could never let me down after that. My second favorite part of walking around the 20 some miles over the week, was the rats. Real New York rats and sometimes mice – more fulfilled expectations, and cute furry ones.

Much of the time we were out walking it was night time, so I didn’t get as many photos as I wanted during the week but I did get some digital photos, videos and checked in at about 50 places on 4 square.

Droid Photos & Videos

[Show as slideshow]

Every night we were out we had a great time looking at buildings and people, imagining NY through the eyes of John McClain (that’s Die Hard’s own – which we have all on blue ray) but also looked forward to Saturday when we could spend some time outside the Trailer and be in the city during the day. Unfortunately it was raining and not exactly warm on Saturday, but it didn’t stop us from heading out as soon as we got up (which wasn’t too early but earlier than a weekday). We had lunch at Vegetarian Paradise II for the last time and checked out the Lomography store in East Village. I stared longingly at the $500 Horizon Perfekt camera and bought a ring flash for my Holga. It took me a while of staring at the menagerie to come to terms with maybe never seeing a Lomo store again but I remembered that I could actually get everything there online, and cheaper, so I was ok with it in the end.

After East Village, we had planned to look at sneakers in Brooklyn, and what better place? Everyone know that’s where the coolest sneakers in the U.S. come from (well that was my assumption). The coolest shoes in Brooklyn actually happened to be in glass cases in what appeared to be pawn shops – but weren’t pawn shops, just strange shoe and bling dealers, and weren’t really what we were looking for. We were hoping for crazy Japanese only Nike and strange limited release shoes but most were fairly calm. We checked out a couple large shoe stores after the un-pawn shoe stores, Dr. Jays being one I had heard of online as being one of the best. Unfortunately we still didn’t find what we were looking for and left for Coney Island shoeless and wet – these weren’t bad things. “Shoeless and wet” meant we had saved ourselves some money and Coney Island wouldn’t be overrun by tourists and teenagers!

The ride to Coney Island was unexpectedly long but provided a great view of Brooklyn and following neighborhoods from an above ground view via the former subway train (the E line). When we got there we quickly found the boardwalk, a pier filled only with a few fishermen and a strange religious group having some kind of white robed drum fest. While looking for some batteries for my new ring flash, I found an awesome little store called Lola Star where a young entrepreneur had her own t-shirt designs for “I <3 NY”, “I <3 Coney Island” and more. I got one with a giant fat cat holding the Statue of Liberty in one paw, and the Empire State Building in the other that says “I Love NY”. If you have been to Coney Island or just want to check out her stuff, go to www.lolastar.com. She has some really cute “Coney-Islandesque” – sailor, beach, tattoo, carnival like designs. I love it.

We finally made it to the “carnival” section of the boardwalk and I was a bit disappointed. It’s obvious that Coney Island is suffering and much of the carnie history I longed to see is gone, but overall it was still a really cute place. There was really nothing we could eat on the boardwalk but there were a few bars and the beach looked inviting, although the weather said otherwise.

 

 

Coney Island Beach

Train Station Coney Island

Coney Island Pier

The last night in town, we were both getting fairly sick from the abuse, 3 day heat wave and low quality air warning, then the rain. We decided to spend our last night just driving around the Manhattan, being wary of what streets we could even fit down, but getting a chance to see some places we’d missed, like Harlem. This was the first time we had used the truck all week since we had the Path train just a couple blocks away, and good thing we had the train because it was a $16 toll to get into the city. We wanted to see Williamsburg and the Bronx but had developed a fear of the tolls and had plenty of driving to do from lower Manhattan where we crossed over, to the top of Manhattan Island around Harlem. Ross did great in the city traffic, pushing his way in like a dump truck when cabbies thought they could bully their way past us. There weren’t a whole lot of big trucks aside from delivery and construction vehicles in the city but as long as we stayed on the main roads, it didn’t seem to matter. In the neighborhoods, some with much older and smaller streets, it may have been a different story.

By the time we got home, we had a lot of packing up to do to leave in the morning. We were much sicker by then and sad to leave a city we had enjoyed so much. We had walked over 20 miles, eaten at some of the best Vegetarian places in the country and seen almost every neighborhood we had heard of, and all in a week, mostly in the evenings. We definitely want to return and see more, maybe even have a real vacation there (staying at Liberty Harbor of course). New York is definitely my favorite North American city, so far.

We arrived in Crestview, more specifically, Holt, 10 miles west, to stay at Eagle’s Landing RV Park. For the first night we actually stayed at River’s Edge RV Park, a huge tree filled fisherman’s paradise park at the bottom of “the biggest hill in Florida” as one man called it, but we had almost no cell phone or mifi (our own wireless) signal and the campground wireless was limited to about 2 hours a day per person. Originally we had asked for a week but needed to go get cash. On the way to an ATM in Holt, we saw Eagle’s landing just past the freeway and pulled in to ask some questions. It was a much better spot for signals and they had Tengo internet, a bandwidth limited but not time limited, internet (2gb every 48hrs). We felt bad but told River’s Edge that we changed our minds and decided to only stay a night. The woman was a bit grumpy but what could she do, or why would she really care. They seemed to have plenty of people there. We stayed the night and moved to Eagle’s Landing the next morning.
The people at Eagle’s Landing were really nice. The couple at the office said they co-own the property with their aunt and uncle who were also camp hosts, while they lived in a double wide at the front of the property (with about 10 kids from what I can tell, maybe foster kids? maybe ever kid in Holt? – a town of population 500 or so).

The park has just over 100 spots with plenty of space our your front door and to the front and back, assuming your trailer or bus isn’t 50 feet long by itself. The north side of the park has a huge long strip of open land specifically for dogs. Dogs have to stay leashed but that’s why they invented extending leashes I guess. They also don’t discriminate against breeds of dogs, openly at least. The ground seems pretty well free of poo, one owner stating that there are over 100 dogs in the park but you’d never know because everyone is so good about picking up after them. I think you’d also never know because most of the dogs are little indoor lap dogs who rarely go outside. I’ve seen about 5 dogs so far. There is no cable but, that is completely normal in state parks of course so it wasn’t disappointing to us. With antennae you get about 40 channels, 15 watchable ones, and that’s still more than we usually get. The park also has public restrooms and showers, pretty normal, except that Eagle’s landing only has one toilet shower combo room per gender, (Most people are using their own showers and toilets though so don’t think you wont get a chance at it), and they have a laundry room with 3 washers and 3 dryers for only $1 each! Before we were even setup I was walking to the laundry to take advantage, and a nice old lady even folded my clothes while we were out (I’d only told her she could move them if I wasn’t back and she wanted the dryer, nice!).

We spent Christmas and New Years here and have now returned after 2 weeks in Pensacola to take care of some unfinished business with the DMV and tax office in Crestview. Because the park is basically a big field (not my favorite park design but everything is spacious and nice so we didn’t mind), we weren’t able to keep our awning out because of the wind but it was much to cold out to be outside anyway. The weather got down to 18 degrees around Christmas so we prepared our hoses and pipes as best we could (also another blog) and kept the place warm with out new space heater.

Eagle’s Landing RV Park is probably the best RV park between Tallahassee and Pensacola (inland), depending on what you want. If you want to “camp”, try out River’s Edge RV Park at the bottom of the hill, If you are traveling full time or want a break from “camping” (we stay in camping places most the time), it’s a nice and super affordable dip back into civilization.

All the buildings here are practically new looking, cabin style, with unpainted red wood, painted concrete floors and cushy rubber mats everywhere. Clean showers with closing frosted doors, rather than the usual nasty plastic shower curtain that touches you while you shower ( in an attempt to make you barf) – and even a separate door to give you privacy and space to change (some seriously make you change inside the shower or out in the open bathroom). Lots of toilet paper and paper towels, rather than hand dryers that don’t work or nothing at all to dry your hands on (let alone soap to wash your hands with).  The laundry room has nice new machines that don’t smell like pee, a big HDTV with Satellite, a DVD machine (currently unplugged for some reason), a soap dispenser and a change machine. Best of all, we are practically the only ones using the bathrooms as usual so there’s no awkward bathroom moments with strangers.

There are about 20 trailers here, ours the oldest I think (as usual) and we haven’t really seen anyone except this one horrible man who leaves his dog outside in a kennel, rain or shine.The lady who works here is nice and there’s lots of stuff to walk to nearby, a Casino with a restaurant, a Gas station for snacks, every fast food chain you don’t want to eat at, one Mexican restaurant, a Rite Aid, a movie theater and a few mechanics and parts stores.

On top of being superior to any place we’ve stayed so far, It’s also one of the cheapest places we’ve stayed at only $135 a week. They also have a heated pool (when its not as cold as it is) and rent peddle boats, canoes and golf carts on an hourly or daily rate and even though its a little too cold to use them, the option is pretty nice. If we ever get a chance before we leave, we hope to get out on the water at least once.

Therefore, even though it’s nearly Mardi Gras, we are staying another week because this we will miss places like this dearly when we leave because most of the places to come are going to be pieces of crap.

We got into town relatively early considering our usual arrival time in of 3am – rolling into a super cheap RV park at 8pm was some kind of miracle. We wanted a place near the center of town to get a chance to do something, anything, during the week. It would be the first time we were near anything at all really. A part of me just wanted to be able to walk to a store or ride my bike to a bar after spending the last couple months in the boondocks. Of the 2 closest to the center of town, Hill County RV Park was the cheapest at only $20 a night or $100 a week. It was almost as cheap as some of the non-hookup sites at state parks and featured free wifi, cable TV and the usual hookups. They even had a gray/black water hookup unlike all the parks so far. For everyone who doesn’t know what gray water is (and I barely know), its the water from your sink and shower, basically anything but your toilet. Black Water is toilet water + the rest – anything you should be embarrassed about. We still don’t use our toilet and don’t plan on it. There is a bathroom with a shower about 40 feet from the RV and as usual we are some of the only people using it so it’s not bad.

Since this is technically the first RV park we have stayed at (everything else having been state parks or parking lots) we were skeptical about sharing space so closely with so many people. Turns out people tend to leave you alone, especially if you leave them alone or look different. They have a rec room we haven’t used for anything yet. It has a TV, books and 2 computers with internet. They are planning a Christmas potluck – probably consisting of a few of the many full time residents at the park. There’s are 64 spots here and less than half of them every seem to get new people in them. Most of the people seem older, many working locally and all of them spending most of their time inside.

Fredericksburg has so far proven interesting enough to keep us here 2 weeks. After we were here a couple days we took a bike ride into town to find a place to get a drink. The highway is the only way into town from where we are and it’s definitely not meant for bikes. It was already dark, naturally (since it gets dark at 5:30) and we hadn’t made the attempt in daylight to get a feel for it. People travel down the highway at about 50 to 70mph, most any intention of giving us any space. I can ride my bike in the dirt if I have to but Ross’s bike has small road tires that pop if you look at them wrong. We had to share a headlight and tail light, me in the back with the flashing red – and probably the only thing that kept us form being smothered. The ride into town is about 2 miles up a slight hill, which wouldn’t have been a problem if I had ridden a bike more than once in the last 3 years. About half way there we found a place called Mamacitas and stopped for something to eat. I thought it was locally owned but we were immediately greeted by a Starbucks inside (the first in Texas) and a possible sighting of a Bush family member (this is a leaping guess, but he looked like Bush). After some soggy spinach on tortillas and cheese we headed off to find another place to grab a drink – someplace Texan this time.

We rode downtown with the expectations that a weeknight would not keep Texans out of the bars but found only a completely dead downtown. All the bars and restaurants on main street were closed and it was only 8pm. We quickly scoured the annals of our iPhones in search of nearby late night beverage sales and came up with Buck O’Brians – an “Irish bar” who was close and open. We walked in to a bar full of cowboys and hunters listening to country music I haven’t heard since I was 12 in Montana and my mom worked in bar. The ride home was cold but at least downhill and we didn’t go out again til this weekend.

Xmas obsessed Fredericksburg:

Santa-Garlic in Fredricksburg Texas

santa on crutches

Spunky Monkey and the Xmas dog

We will be here until Christmas and 2 days after. We don’t expect to do much on, around or after Christmas but I guess that all depends on our willingness to face the highway, pack up and drive somewhere or socialize. I’m sure something will drag us out before then.